Any fragrances must be well-tested over time before they can be deemed classics. Guerlain Nahéma was a flop when it was first introduced in 1979, but its mature, voluptuous accord of ylang-ylang, rose, and sandalwood is now considered archetypal. Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, on the other hand, has been an amber gold standard in less than a decade. It was developed as an approximation of a traditional sweet amber theme and is now one of the most imitated and identifiable amber fragrances. Layering a sweet, unctuous amber accord with the camphorous light of herbs was Serge Lutens and perfumer Christopher Sheldrake’s genius. As a consequence, there’s an interesting sweet-savory interplay that’s reminiscent of both caramel ganache and tomates à la provençale (tomatoes grilled with parsley and oregano.)
On the surface, Ambre Sultan seems to be a twist on the standard labdanum and vanilla accord used in many classic fragrances. It has lots of warm resins accented with dried patchouli and woods, as well as a delectably rich vanilla. Despite the fact that certain elements seem to be familiar, there are some aspects of Ambre Sultan that are unexpected. When set against the gloomy, heavy resins, the vivid, aromatic flourish of marjoram, thyme, and coriander has a piquant character, similar to a sprinkling of salt over a slice of chocolate. Herbs lighten amber’s opulent heft, while lush, vegetal musks smooth some of the rough edges.
Features
In comparison to grand parfums such as Guerlain Mitsouko, in which a classical sweet amber accord is prominent alongside mossy woods and cinnamon sprinkled peaches, Ambre Sultan is a solo performance. It is not a composition in which the top notes are separate from the drydown. Ambre Sultan, on the other hand, reveals all of the gilded, ambery layers at once, allowing one to enjoy their warmth and richness.
It is a radiant composition built in the contemporary style that blends great tenacity with a strong sillage. When I wear Ambre Sultan, I feel like I’m bundled in a thick pashmina, which is a cool feeling on a cold day. It receives several praises, many of which come from total strangers. Nonetheless, be aware that proper dosage can mean the difference between a caress and asphyxiation. One so many sprays, and Ambre Sultan’s charm becomes suffocating.
Coriander, amber, oregano, bay leaf, myrtle, angelica root, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, and vanilla are among the notes in Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan Eau de Parfum. It is marketed for export. Aedes, Beautyhabit, Luckyscent, Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, and several Neiman Marcus locations carry the export line fragrances. $120 for a 50ml bottle.
What We Like:
- Unctuous amber accord
- Camphorous brightness of herbs
- Fascinating sweet-savory interplay
- Warm resins accented
What We Don’t Like:
- None.
Who Is This Product For
Serge Lutens’ Ambre Sultan is a scent for both men and women. Ambre Sultan debuted in 2000. Christopher Sheldrake is the nose behind this scent.
How To Use
Serge Lutens’ Ambre Sultan is a scent for both men and women. Molinard Ambre Eau de Parfum and fairly warm, and I have to admit that this blooms wonderfully in the sun, but with far less sprays than I can use in cooler conditions.
Conclusion
This is not an Oriental scent, but rather an Arab and a Lutens. As a consequence, don’t expect it to blend in.
The starting point was a scented wax discovered in a souk and long forgotten in a wooden jar. The amber only became sultanesque after I reworked the formulation with cistus, a herb that sticks to your fingertips like tar, and then added an overtone no one had ever imagined: vanilla. Why is this so? Vanilla is also sticky, and it clung to my memory.